Alert: Potential Impact on Climbing Access – Proposed Wilderness Anchor Regulations
Attention climbers!
The NPS and USFS have introduced draft directives that could reshape long standing climbing practices by classifying fixed anchors as prohibited “installations” in Wilderness areas. This is concerning within the climbing community, as fixed anchors—bolts, pitons, and slings—are fundamental for safe ascents and descents in technical terrains. This proposed change not only challenges established norms but also raises safety issues, requiring climbers to navigate the complexity of obtaining specific exceptions for each Wilderness climbing area.
Wilderness holds a crucial role in the Black Hills and American climbing history, with iconic sites like El Capitan in Yosemite and Joshua Tree’s Wonderland of Rocks.
It’s crucial to highlight that these directives aren’t limited to just Black Elk Wilderness; they encompass and will set a precedent for all climbing in the Black Hills region, including Custer State Park, Mt. Rushmore Memorial Areas, Norbeck Wildlife Preserve, Spearfish Canyon, Victoria Canyon and all other Forest Service lands.
Outdoor Recreation is a $1.1 trillion industry supporting 5 million jobs. Climbing alone contributes $10.2 billion to the nation’s economy. Small businesses, such as guiding companies and local outfitters, have potential consequences for their livelihoods.
We are asking for you to engage in the public comment period on both the NPS and USFS forums.
We please ask that you focus your comment on personal experiences, the importance of climbing protection, and what it would mean to you if these directives were implemented.This would help illustrate the positive coexistence of climbing and wilderness preservation rather than focusing on the legalities of the proposed plan.
If you would like to showcase your support for the efforts ongoing by the BHCC and the access fund in your comment please reference this statement below:
“I wholeheartedly endorse the efforts of the Access Fund and the Black Hills Climbers Coalition in preserving climbing access and advocating for responsible bolt placement. Their dedication to maintaining climbing access and environmental conservation is crucial, and I stand behind their initiatives.”
Click buttons below to comment.