Introductions

Why BHCC?

• Work with landmangers to keep access to climbing areas open
• Replace old hardware on routes
• Meet other climbers in the community
• Chance to get together and have fun
• Discount at shops, pubs/restaurants

Recap last year

-Pinfest and Beans and Biners
-New ropes for the coalition
-Holds for the climbing gym
-Routes were repaired
-Changed route repair procedure to become better and more transparent

What are the upcoming events/projects for the year?

-Andrew Burr Slideshow this spring to go with guidebook release (Couple new guides out if you haven’t seen them yet)
-Real Rock Tour (film) this fall (trailer)
-Spearfish climbing day?
-T-shirts
-Pin Fest
-Beans and Biners
-Pumpkin Party

Meeting Places?

• Everyone okay with Tech? Other ideas?

Updates from special project committee members

• Synthetic Boulders in City Parks-Bergdale
• Climbing Museum/Shed-Tater
• Speakers/Events-Terran
Route Repair Committee Report

• Overview of schedule/procedures we do
• 2011 Report
• What’s coming up in 2012?
• Website for more details-email in suggestions throughout the year
• Hardware purchase this year
Ideas for more fundraising?

Hardware is pricey…..what can we do to raise some more money this year?

Donation box at shops?

Land and Water Conservation Grant or other grants?

Auction off routes at slideshow and other events?

Anything Else

Membership Dues?

THANK YOU FOR YOU SUPPORT!

Adjourn…..to the bar!

We hope to see you all at the January 18th 2012 meeting to be held at the school of Mines and Tech....Classroom Building 203 at 7pm.

There will be a report from the Bolting Committee, and plans for 2012 discussed.

Reminder that with the turning of the calendar year, the 2012 membership dues are due. Most all funds go directly back into benefiting the climbing community in the form of bolt replacement.

Other benefits include discounts cards for area businesses.

If you have energy and or ideas that would help the climbing community, please become a member.

Chair: Jason McNabb
Co-Chair: Chris Pelczarski
Secretary: Becky Wagner
Treasurer: Jim Slichter
Publicist: Daryl Stisser
Members at Large: Ron Yahne, Mike Cronin
All positions with the exception of Member at large were not voted on because they were uncontested. A ballot vote was done for the members at large.

It was proposed that the next meetings be held at the athletic club. It was voted and passed that Chris Pelczarski will work out the details with the Athletic Club.
Meeting Adjourned and climbing followed. Full notes are posted.

REMEMBER - 2012 dues are being collected. Thank you for your continued support. We hope you enjoy all the new holds at the gym and the new bolts at the crag. Climb on!

The November meeting notes have been posted and can be found under the ABOUT US tab above.

Highlights.

- It was agreed that Adam Berdale would spearhead work on getting some artificial outdoor boulders placed somewhere in the Rapid City parks. Folks thought that this would benefit the most area climbers and be a good way for the coalition to put its best foot forward to the community.

-If anyone else has an idea for improving the climbing around the Black Hills and would like to use the BHCC as a base for bringing this idea to fruition...the BHCC would like to know about it so that it can be considered and if approved, we can figure out how to move forward and help further these projects.

-It was voted that we move next months meeting to the 14th of Dec. to avoid the x-Mas rush...we are also looking into holding the meeting at the Athletic Club Rock Gym. Meeting time will still be at 7pm

- Elections - you may email your vote by 7pm to bhcc@bhclimbers.com or vote by ballot in person.

-What is being voted on?

Members at large - There are 3 people running.
-Ron Yahne - Mike Cronin - Rebekah Wold

Treasure - Jim Slicter agreed to run again and is unopposed

Secretary - Becky Wagner agreed to run again and is unopposed

Publicist - Daryl Stisser agreed to run again and is unopposed

Co Chair - There are 3 nominations - Chris Hirsh - Andy Koosman- Chris Pelczarski

Chair - Chris Pelczarski state that he did not wish to run again. Jason McNabb was nominated and is running unopposed.

The complete notes as recorded by the Secretary are available as mentioned above.

Hello Everyone,

It is November again. Another year has nearly gone. At this months upcoming meeting (11/16 7pm), nominations will be accepted for the December election for the 2012 Black Hills Climbing Coalition board. In a message from President Chris P.

"....we have a couple things we need to publicize pretty clearly. One, November's meeting is the nomination meeting for officers (then Dec. is voting meeting) according to our by-laws. We have set a DEADLINE for nomination submissions of midnight on November 16th (our next meeting.) We'll take nominations starting now by
e-mail, or in person to a board member, and at the next meeting as well...."

The current board is:

Chair – Chris Pelczarski
Co-chair – Jason McNabb
Secretary – Becky Wagner
Treasurer – Jim Slichter
Publicist – Daryl Stisser
Forum Moderator - Alex A. Washburn (non voting position)
Members at Large: Ron Yahne and Mike Cronin


If you would like to be a new board member, please throw your name in the hat and have someone nominate you or nominate someone you would like to see run.
_____________________________________________________________

Two: It was also discussed at the October meeting that the November meeting will be the time when the members will vote on the BHCC special project for 2012. The list of ideas was discussed at the October meeting and shrunk to 3 ideas that people were excited about working towards.

Getting outdoor climbing boulder built near Rapid City
Creating a Climbing Museum near Sylvan Lake
Hosting a Guest speaker series

_____________________________________________________________

So, the meeting on 11/16/11 at 7pm... at the 204 E classroom building at School of Mines and Technology will be a big one and we hope to see you there.

_____________________________________________________________

So what else did the coalition accomplish this year? Here are a few highlights.

- Over
300 climbing holds were made for the Athletic club climbing gym. 75 shapes – A big Thanks to Jim, Denise, Jason and Hirsh for doing this!!

- Pin Fest was held
- Beans and Biners

- Pumpkin fest
- Route repairs on lines including

Buckshot Eyes And A Purple Heart
Fine Line
Left Wing Of Smaug
Screaming Wheaties
Pine Tree Rock Repairs
3 Rings For The Elvin Kings
Going Down To Harlem With A Turd In My Shorts
Evergreen

- Discount cards for several area restaurants and retailers.
- A new website was created where all the meeting notes and route repair reports are placed along with a Google calendar and Forum for members.

At last count, the BHCC had a whopping 56 PAID and current members for the 2011 calendar year. So if you are a member and want to be part of the future of Black Hills Climbing....We'll see you at the meeting.

_____________________________________________________________

Now a message from our supporters at Granite Sports. This weekend, stop by for some great store-wide bargains....Next weekend - enjoy deals on ropes - Evolv shoes - Helmets, and enter to win a free Sterling rope and Black Diamond Gear. While you are there, pick up a copy of Mike Cronins new Black Hills Limestone Guidebook.

Call Granite Sports for more info - 605-574-2121

Fall Hours: Mon - Sat: 10-6......Sunday: 11-4

At the November 16th meeting of the BHCC nominations will be taken for the 2012 board.

Nominations will be taken in person verbally at the meeting, by email to , or by telling a board member your nomination.

November 16th at midnight is the deadline. Absolutely no additions after this.

So if you are a BHCC member and want to be on the board this is your chance.

An email from Frank at Devils Tower NP and another from the American Mountain Guides have made me aware of a threat to climbing access that I hope you will help us fight.

The letter below from the American Mountain Guides below explains.

National Parks Access Threatened - Important Call to Action!


**************Comments DUE Saturday, 10/27********************



We (the AMGA) are deeply concerned about the current threat to guiding access in our country's National Park System. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park wants to completely ban guided climbing, which has a 50-year history in this unique climbing venue. This proposed ban does not only impact this incredible park in Colorado. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing in National Parks across the country. If you care about preserving wilderness guided climbing access in venues such as Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Rocky Mountain National Park, New River Gorge and other important guiding venues, please read on.



The Black Canyon Backcountry Management Plan wants to ban guiding because "guided climbing does not support the goal for the inner canyon zone of providing a visitor experience that is challenging, self-reliant, and adventurous." The NPS is making an uncanny argument for why guided climbing is no longer necessary in the Park. Your clients, friends and fellow climbers (who are not guides) need to submit comments to the Park. We have been told that the Park has already heard from guides, and what they really need are comments from the general public and clients.



What can you do now?



1. Email your friends and fellow climbers today urging them to submit a comment by Oct. 27th. Use Facebook, your website, blog and any other communication vehicles to get the word out to your clients.



2. See below for a sample email to your friends and fellow climbers.



It's in all of our interests to raise awareness and take action on this important issue today. The deadline for comments is Thursday, October 27th. Thank you for supporting the future of the profession in the U.S.



For more information, visit http://parkplanning.nps.gov



___________________________________________________________________________________



The National Park Service wants to ban guided climbing and prohibit members of the public from being able to climb with a professional guide in one of our country's most adventurous wilderness climbing areas. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing access in National Parks across the country. We are requesting your urgent support to help preserve guided climbing access in the Black Canyon as well as in other National Parks the U.S.



Here is how you can help:



Send an email to Ken_Stahlnecker@nps.gov today using the talking points below. Our goal is to have 500 people (who are not guides) contact Ken Stahlnecker opposing the Park's plan to ban guided climbing in the Black Canyon and urging the Park to preserve guiding climbing access in this unique venue.



Dear Ken Stahlnecker,

Chief, Resource Stewardship and Science

National Park Service,

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park



I am writing to urge you to keep guided climbing access available to the American public. Along with Yosemite National Park and Red Rocks National Conservation Area, the Black Canyon is one of only a few climbing venues in the country offering big wall climbing opportunities. There is often a scarcity of willing and adequate climbing partners to tackle the bold and remote terrain of the Black. Because climbing requires a team of two unless one is free soloing, my options for experiencing this unique wilderness area will be substantially reduced or eliminated altogether if guided climbing is banned in the Inner Canyon Zone.



Having the option to climb with a professional guide is necessary for me to be able to experience the vertical wilderness in the Black Canyon. Partnering with a professional guide will enhance my opportunity for an experience of adventure, challenge and self-reliance. I see no difference between climbing with a professional guide and climbing with a non-guide partner who happens to be stronger or more experienced than me. It is not uncommon for climbing partners to be of varying levels of experience. Climbing successfully in the Black always requires the self-reliance, commitment and personal fortitude of both climbing partners regardless of their varying experience levels.



Thank you for the opportunity to provide my opinion on this important matter.

Sept 3 at 9am - Wrinkled Rock / Rushmore Climbing Area - there will be chili - feel free to bring potluck snacks to share

Next Meeting is Sept 21 at the School of Mines

There are no longer any bolts on Super Pin. They were removed by the person who made the first assent and his friends.

Notes from 8-17 meeting posted and membership list updated

From the AMGA

Fellow Climbers:

If you love Red Rocks, please read on.

If you've ever climbed at Red Rocks (who hasn't?), you understand how real the development pressure to this unique area has been in the last many years. The Las Vegas suburb of Summerlin has now reached the very edge of the conservation area. Some of us remember the days (only 15 years ago) when it was a long semi-rural drive from the edge of town to Red Rocks. But at least for now, development has stopped from that direction and is still relatively far and largely out of sight from the cliffs and canyons we love.

That is about to change.

If local developer Jim Rhodes gets his way, the entire Blue Diamond Hill (the massive hill at the center of the RR cirque, that forms the foreground of the view from anywhere at Red Rocks, and the backdrop to the BLM campground, and is currently completely undeveloped) will become a brand new town of 5,000 homes and about 15,000 residents, complete with shopping malls, schools, etc. An official plan has recently been submitted to the county by the developers: it effectively puts a brand new mid-size city right in the middle of the conservation area.

The distance between the escarpment and the closest modern developments will drop from the current 10 miles to less than 3.5 miles. This translates to an increase in the light and noise pollution by a factor of more than 8, not even accounting for the buffer effect played by the currently undeveloped hill! If this plan goes forward, you may not even need a headlamp anymore for those early morning approaches to Resolution Arete!

For more details about the history of this situation, please see the first two references below.

On August 17 at 9AM, the Clark County Zoning Commission will meet to approve/disapprove this plan.

Opposition to the plan (www.saveredrock.com) has to date remained localized around the small town of Blue Diamond and local Las Vegas newspapers, largely due to a lack of information among the larger community.

Because climbers are uniquely attached to this area, I believe they are the most likely group to stand up for its preservation. For the last few weeks, some of us have been trying to spread the word within the climbing community. A public outcry to the officials involved, particularly if coming from the entire nation, may have a good chance of changing the outcome and saving this unique area.

Here's what you can do (in order of decreasing urgency, but remember, the key decision will be made on August 17, so there are only a few days to act):

1. Call or write e-mails to Clark county commissioners:
Do this now, and certainly before August 15! See contact information below.
2. Ask your friends to do the same: please forward this e-mail to all your friends!
3. Sign the petition
4. Send e-mails to congressmen and the BLM
5. If you live reasonably close to Vegas, be at the Clark County zoning commission meeting
on August 17, and either speak up or wear/carry evidence of your position on the issue.

Please ACT!

On behalf of the future of Red Rocks: thank you!
Eric Ponslet and Lucie Parietti.

APPENDICES

Contact Information:

Clark county commissioners:
All commissioners can be reached by phone at: (702) 455-3500
All commissioners can receive faxes at: (702) 455-3271
Clark County Commissioners, 500 S. Grand Central Parkway, Las Vegas, NV 89155
Steve Sisolak, District A, ccdista@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Tom Collins, District B, ccdistb@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Larry Brown, District C, ccdistc@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Lawrence Weekly, District D, ccdistd@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Chris Giunchigliani, District E, ccdiste@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Susan Brager, District F, ccdistf@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Mary Beth Scow, District G, ccdistg@ClarkCountyNV.gov

BLM Southern Nevada District Office:
Mary Jo Rugwell, District Manager,
4701 North Torrey Pines Drive
Las Vegas, NV 89130
Phone: 702-515-5000
Fax: 702-515-5023
Email: lvfoweb@blm.gov

NV Congressmen/women: (even if you don't live in NV, it doesn't mean you shouldn't contact them)
Senator Harry Reid (D- NV), 202-224-3542, http://reid.senate.gov/contact/index.cfm
Senator Dean Heller (R- NV), 202-224-6244, heller.senate.gov/contact_form.cfm
Representative Shelley Berkley (D-01), 202-225-5965, shelley.berkley@mail.house.gov
Representative Joe Heck (R-03), 202-225-3252, https://heck.house.gov/contact-me/email-me

Upcoming Clark County Zoning Commission meeting:

August 17 (Wednesday), 9:00 a.m.,
Clark County Government Building, Commission Chambers
Government Center, 500 S. Grand Central Parkway, Las Vegas, NV.

Suggested key points for use in e-mails to officials:

Red Rocks is a National Conservation Area, of considerable interest to all Americans and foreign tourists, with a unique oasis-like flora and fauna and amazing scenery.
Red Rocks is a world-renowned climbing area, visited each year by thousands of climbers from the US and abroad. Those climbers spend their time and money at Red Rocks because of its unique beauty and undeveloped character.
Contrary to biased assertions in the developer's plan, the proposed development is in plain unobstructed view from most of the hiking and climbing locales in the Red Rocks NRA. The top of the Blue Diamond hill is in fact the most immediately scenic feature from these places.
There are plenty of remaining areas available for development in the Las Vegas valley. The Red Rock Canyon NRA is a unique resource to the people of Las Vegas and visitors from all over and it must be preserved

References and Links:

"Rhodes submits revised plan for developing Blue Diamond Hill," By Scott Wyland, Las Vegas Review-Journal, July 7, 2011. http://www.lvrj.com/news/rhodes-submits-revised-plan-125130408.html

"Jim Rhodes is Coming: his homes will rise in Red Rock, but how sprawling is the developer's secret plan?" by Jason Whited, Las Vegas City Life, February 24, 2011, http://www.lasvegascitylife.com/articles/2011/02/24/news/local_news/iq_42408246.txt

The developer's plan, ironically titled "Gypsum Reclamation Concept Plan", Gypsum Resources, LLC, June 29, 2011, http://www.reviewjournal.com/media/download/rhodes_plan.pdf

Website of the local action group: www.saveredrock.com

Mountainproject.com thread about the issue: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/red-rock-threatened-by-development/107227001

SuperTopo.com thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1565955/Red-Rocks-under-imminent-threat-of-development

The meeting notes from the July meeting are posted.

The notes from the meeting on 6/15 are now posted.

The BHCC board has voted to go ahead with the addition of bolts to Evergreen. The board members voted as follows:

Chris Pelczarski- No

Jason McNabb- Yes

Jim Slichter- No

Daryl Stisser- Yes

Mike Cronin- Yes

Ron Yahne- Yes

Becky Wagner- Yes

Thank you to everyone who wrote in and provided their input. Many of the board members wrote their thoughts on the proposal on the BHCC blog if you are interested in checking it out.

The route has been scouted again and the final plan has been sent to Mike and he agreed with it, and a signed copy of that will be kept on file.

Hope everyone is getting out and climbing a lot - don't forget the BHCC meeting Wed. the 15th of June.

Thanks again-BHCC Board

The highway between Devils Tower and Sundance Wyoming has re-opened with one lane and a stop light after the land slide.

Check out Jan Conns stories and songs. Tomorrow Sat Jun 4th, at Devils Tower 7pm. Here is some more info.

http://www.sylvanrocks.com/_blog/SR_Climbing_School_Blog/post/Jan_Conn_Program_at_Devils_Tower/

Highway 14 from Sundance towards Devils Tower is closed after a land slide.

For more info and a photo goto...

http://www.sylvanrocks.com/_blog/SR_Climbing_School_Blog/post/Road_to_Devils_Tower_closed_due_to_landslide/

The route above the Bowling Alley called Pseudo Weissner has several new freshly unearthed boulders that seem like they could easily be dislocated and fall. Take extra care if climbing or rappelling in the area. If your rope got caught on one you could pull it onto yourself.

More info: http://www.sylvanrocks.com/_blog/SR_Climbing_School_Blog/post/Loose_boulders_on_Devils_Tower/

The May 18th BHCC meeting will be held at 204 E classroom building on the campus of the School of Mines in Rapid City at 7pm.

As with many climbing areas across the country, early every year Devils Tower must close a few routes due to the nesting of Falcons there.

There have just announced their closures for 2011.

You can find more info here

https://dakotablackhills.wordpress.com/

"AAC North Central Section and South Dakota School of Mines &
Technology Climbing Club Climb-unity Event

The American Alpine Club North Central Section & South Dakota School
of Mines & Technology Climbing Club will be hosting a Climb-munity
Event at the South Seas Climbing area at Mount Rushmore April 30th.
Meet us at the Wrinkled Rock Campground area at 10am look for the AAC
Banner. We will be climbing throughout the South Seas area. The SDSM&T
Climbing Club will have top rope opportunities for new
comers/climbers. Stop by the AAC Banner and hear about upcoming summer
events for the North Central Section. We will have some swag giveaways
and more.

Weather Warning: If there is rain or snow in the air this event will
be postponed to a later date.

If you have questions please contact the North Central Section Chair,
Markus Jobman:markjobman@me.com or ph: 605-877-4804
You are receiving this email because you're a vital part of the
climbing community."

Weather Warning: If there is rain or snow in the air this event will
be postponed to a later date.

If you have questions please contact the North Central Section Chair,
Markus Jobman:markjobman@me.com or ph: 605-877-4804
You are receiving this email because you're a vital part of the
climbing community."

Sylvan Rocks Climbing School will be hosting a Single Pitch Instructor Course - May 15,16,17. This course has been developed by the American Mountain Guides Assoc. to help transition climbers into guides. If you are interested in becoming a rock climbing guide or working with camps or youth groups this might be perfect for you.

Check out the Overview below and visit the AMGA website for complete info - http://amga.com/programs/SPI.php

To sign up for the course please contact Matt Mieczkowski
matt.mieczkowski@gmail.com

Cost for the course is $475.

Limited slots available so please contact Matt soon.

SPI Course Overview

The following three day outline is the standard progression for the SPI Course. Your course may have a different daily schedule and it is acceptable for Program Providers to do this as long as the entire curriculum is covered in your course. Program Providers may add to the curriculum on your course but must not omit pieces. SPI Program providers must make it clear when they are teaching outside the curriculum and should not evaluate beyond the curriculum. The course is normally run over three consecutive nine hour days but as long as all the curriculum is covered over 27 hours the course could be run over separate weekends or even as a semester class.
Day 1

Session 1: SPI and AMGA Program Overview
Session 2: Professionalism
Session 3: Equipment
Session 4: Knots and Hitches
Session 5: Belaying
Session 6: Protection and Anchoring
Session 7: Teaching
End of Day Debriefs

Day 2

Session 8: The Climbing Site
Session 9: Site Organization and Group Management
Session 10: Base Managed Sites
Session 11: Assistance Skills - Base Managed Sites
Session 12: Programming and Risk Management
End of Day Debriefs

Day 3

Session 13: Instructor Demo Lead Climb
Session 14: Top Managed Sites
Session 15: Lowering
Session 16: Assistance Skills - Top Managed Sites
Session 17: Rappelling
Session 18: Climbing Movement
Session 19: Review Sessions
Final Individual and Group Debriefs

Pre-Requisites for Single Pitch Instructor Course

You meet the pre-requisites for the SPI course if you:

Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.

Are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.

Have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.

Are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).

Have trad lead climbed a minimum of 15 graded rock climbing routes (any grade).

Are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.

The above pre-requisites are absolute minimums and most candidates have way in excess of the above. Without having at least this amount experience you are unlikely to play a constructive part on the course or be able to make best use of the training. If you are unsure of your skill levels we suggest hiring an AMGA/IFMGA certified guide to evaluate and enhance your skills and experience prior to SPI Program enrollment.

The notes from the last BHCC meeting on April 20th are now posted.

Please visit the Route Repair> Rushmore Climbing page to view the Bolting committees proposal for the route called Evergreen at Mt Rushmore climbing area. Comments accepted until May 23, 2011.

June 11th. Hold making party – The Athletic Club climbing gym needs more holds... so the BHCC is bucking up and helping out by donating time materials and labor to making a set. Jim S. has a set of molds and the resins have been bought by the coalition and they are looking for some help. The hold making party is scheduled for Sat June 11. Plan is climb Rushmore 9am and meet at Wrinkle Rock Parking Lot at 3pm for food (pot luck) and Hold making. It was decided that the April dates would not have warm enough temps to get the material to set up correctly.

Because of the COLD story weather the Black Hills has been enjoying...it was announced at the last meeting that the hold making party will be POSTPONED till June. Stay tuned for more dates.

The meeting will be from 7 to 8pm at The Classroom Building room 204 w at School of Mines and Technology in Rapid City SD. Most likely there will be a post meeting gathering at one of the local pubs.

May 14th - 2nd Annual Falling Rock Clean-up, SD
Falling Rock Climbing Area, Black Hills,South Dakota

Black Hill Climbers Coalition will be hosting the 2nd annual Falling Rock AAC in cooperation with the US Forest Service. Trash cleanup, trail maintenance, group climb, food, prizes, FUN!! We will start at 10 am with picking up garbage and working on the access trails. Then we will have a group climb after all the work is done. The local climbing shops are donating some sweet swag for door prizes and a gear raffle!!! Can't wait to see you all there!! For more information, please contact Alex Washburn at awashbu12@gmail.com.

Hi!!! we are looking for an instructor this summer to teach youth some safety, technique and basic climbing skillhere at the Club. will probably be an afternoon class or two, for an hour or two and the instructor will recieve a fee of course. anyone interested???? you can email us at mary@rapidcityathleticclub.com thanks,mary

For those of you from eastern SD, you know that the Palisades State Park near Sioux Falls is a great little gem on the Prairie for some rock climbing.

Mark Greeno has put together an adopt a crag on April 30th.

The climbing and or outdoor clubs from USD - SDSU and U of Neb Omaha's climbing clubs all plan to be there along with the local climbers of the area so it should be a great time.

Please come out and participate. These events are a great way to put a smiling face on the great sport of rock climbing.

8:45 - 9:15 am - Registration
9:00 am - noon - Trail Maintenance and Park Clean-Up
Noon - 1 pm - Free Lunch / Door Prizes / Live Acoustical Local Music / Slack-Line Activities
1 - 4 pm > Rock Climbing Activities

THIS EVENT HAPPENS RAIN OR SHINE!!!!

Hold making party – The Athletic Club climbing gym needs more holds... so the BHCC is bucking up and helping out by donating time materials and labor to making a set. Jim S. has a set of molds and the resins have been bought by the coalition and they are looking for some help. The hold making party is scheduled for Sat April 23rd. Plan is climb Rushmore 9am and
meet at Wrinkle Rock Parking Lot at 3pm for food (pot luck) and Hold making. Back up is April 30th.

The good folks at Mount Rushmore have recently added info to their website in simple black and white that lays out what climbers can an cannot do.

Here is a copy of the verbiage that can be found at their website on a downloadable pdf

Rules and Regulations that pertain to recreational rock climbing Hiking or climbing within the signed Closure Area surrounding the sculptures is strictly prohibited.

-Overnight use, camping, and open fires are not allowed within Memorial boundaries.

-Bolting using hand tools is allowed. Fixed anchors are also permitted.

-Unless authorized by a Special Use Permit issued through the office of the Mount Rushmore National Memorial Chief Ranger, the use of motorized power drilling is prohibited.

-During special events, portions of climbing areas within the Memorial are subject to closure.

-While there is no entrance fee, there is a fee for using the main parking structure.

-Dogs are currently allowed in the backcountry when on a leash of six feet or less. Pets may not be left unattended, and owners are responsible for removing solid pet waste.

-All back country visitors are encouraged to practice “Leave No Trace” ethics in order to lessen impacts on fragile vegetation and other resources.

-Off road travel is restricted to foot traffic only.

-No wheeled vehicles are allowed off road.

-Please sign in at the Climbing Registers.

-Climber guide books for the area may be purchased at the Mount Rushmore bookstores located in the Visitor Center and Information Center.

I have asked that they add more guidance as to the website describing the situation at the Emancipation area....which as I understand is currently open to climbing, but there will be no more walk offs...so plan to rap. Signs showing the open and off limits areas are easily found.

A little more info can be found on the Sylvan Rocks Climbing School Blog.

http://www.sylvanrocks.com/_blog/SR_Climbing_School_Blog/post/Mount_Rushmore_post_new_Rules_for_Rock_Climbing_Area/

The Black Hills Forest Service plans to improve the parking area at Wrinkled Rock near the Mount Rushmore Climbing Area.

Along with additional parking and some trail work to provide better access, they will be putting up some additional signboards.

The text that they put out can be found via the link above.Some rule changes will also take place. Top things that will affect users as I have read them.

Dogs will only be allowed in the area on a 6 foot leash. This is set up in order to standardize the Mount Rushmore rule. Mount Rushmore is one of the few places that is managed by the National Park System where dogs are allowed at all off the pavement. That is really great for users, but animals must be attended and on a 6 foot leash. So to reduce confusion...the Forest Service will adopt this rule within the Norbeck wildlife area....so from Custer State Park through the Black Elk Wilderness and the Norbeck wildlife area and Mount Rushmore....you may bring your dog, but you will need to have them on a 6 foot leash and clean up after them...or get a ticket.

Second thing that will probably change is the free camping limit in this area. Wrinkled rock bivy site is also a unique situation. In order to keep it...the managers decided that rather then have the 14 night rule that governs the rest of the Forest, They would limit the Bivy site to 3 nights. They want to do this in order to keep other user groups...such as Rv'ers with big rigs and generators from setting up shop in the 'climber bivy' so yes...it cuts into our freedoms a little, but it preserves them in the long run...so complain about it if you must, but know that big picture it will keep the bivy site open longer.

Confusion about the fire rules... bottom line... There are no campfires allowed outside of paid campground sites with approved fire rings. No exceptions to this rule...ever. So if you want a campfire...you gotta go to a pay site. You wanna camp for free on the forest...no campfires.

If you have comments..please goto the contact us page and Chris P our coalition pres, will read through them and respond to the FS by Feb 23...so do it now.

As always..please remember that it may be true that one action will not damage the area, but as a user group that has thousands of members...our collective actions can have huge affects on the environment, and the land managers are charged with keeping up the area for future generations and therefor need to enforce rules upon us.

The folks at Tech moved our meeting room for Wed. the 16th. meeting. It will still start at 7pm, but will be in the Electrical Engineering Building Room 252. See you there.

February 16th we will meet from 7pm to 8 in room 204 of the Classroom Building on the School of Mines and Technology Campus in Rapid City, SD (same room as last time)- Most likely there will be a post meeting gathering at one of the local pubs.

Word is that Feb. 19th at noon there will be a Boulder Comp put on by the Athletic Club at 7800 Albertta Dr. (Up Sheridan Lake Rd.) Phone (605) 343-0744.

Start time is high noon, and the good folks of Crow Peak Brewery are serving up a keg of brew to anyone of legal drinking age. Should be a good time, and we thank Crow Peak and everyone else responsible to putting this on.

I'm sure there will be more details discussed at the Feb. 16th BHCC meeting so we hope to see you there too.

The January meeting was held at the School of Mines and the meeting notes are posted.

Highlights:

- New Drill bought for route repair
- Boulder Comp at Athletic Club proposed

January 19 we will meet from 7pm to 8 or possibly 8:30 in room 204 of the Classroom Building on the School of Mines and Technology Campus in Rapid City, SD - Most likely there will be a post meeting gathering at one of the local pubs.

We are very happy to have a new website and hope to do a much better job of keeping it updated and fresh. Please visit often.