The Black Hills Climber’s Coalition Presents:

Paul Piana

A Rock Climbing Legend

Photos, Stories, and Tall Tales from

the Amazon to Africa to South Dakota
 

JULY 30, 7PM

Elks Theater

$10 BHCC Members
$15 Non-Members
$20 Admission and BHCC Membership
All proceeds support anchor and bolt
 replacement in theBlack Hills.We appreciate
 your membership and support of the Black
 Hills Climber’s Coalition!

 

PinFest Climbers Gathering

Ten Pins Area, Custer State Park.

Saturday, August 2, 9AM

Bring your friends and experience a classic day of climbing. This is not an official event, but a traditional summer gathering of climbers. Bring a lunch and commute if possible to avoid an excess of cars in switchback area.

For more information, please call 605.348.3432

 

July 2007 Newsletter

Black Hills Climbing Coalition

Bruce Junek—Newsletter Editor

July 2007

The next meeting of the BHCC will be 7 pm Tuesday, July 17, at the Gaslight in Rockerville.

Summer is here, and that means Pumpfest! Sort-of. 

This year the Pumpfest will be a total return to the roots of the event, and I think that will make it new, fun and exciting. 

In the early 1990s a celebration of climbing occurred in the Ten Pins area of Custer State Park in memory of longtime Needles climber Paul Muehl. It was the best of social climbing--ropes were put up on many formations and climbers got a chance to GET OUT AND CLIMB TOGETHER. No charge, no registration, no competition, and no rules except have fun and be safe.

We will be having a similar gathering this summer. We are calling it Pumpfest for lack of another word—maybe we should call it Pinfest. But there will be no charge and no competition. The BHCC will provide some snacks, but you need to bring your own food, gear and ropes. We will gather at 9 am, Saturday July 28, and are encouraging people to park at Sylvan Lake and car pool down to the Ten Pins. Use the bathroom before you get there!

This years event is a memorial for Todd Skinner, who died last fall in a freak accident in Yosemite. As part of the Pinfest and memorial, the BHCC is sponsoring the slide show, HIGH ASPIRATIONS, by Paul Piana, a Black Hills native who was Todd’s longtime friend and partner.

HIGH ASPIRATIONS will be shown at the Elks Theater at 6:30 p.m., Friday, July 27. The evening will start with a gear raffle and then the slide program. 

This event is being held as a fundraiser for the BHCC to buy stainless steel anchors and bolts to replace dangerous and unsafe hardware on Black Hills climbs. You can help us raise funds by bringing all your friends to the slide program—tell everyone you know and ten people you don’t know. You also help big time just by keeping your yearly dues paid to the BHCC.

The cost of the show is $10 for BHCC members, $15 for non-members, and $20 for both the show and membership.

Join us for the slide program at the Elks Theater, and the Pumpfest or Pinfest on the following day.

Climb Hard and Climb Safe

2006 BHCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS:

Bruce B. Junek, Chairperson   605-348-3432  

Lyle Clapp, Vice Chairperson 662-7764/440-0718

Susan Scheirbeck, Secretary 
Jim Slichter, Treasurer 
Aaron Costello, Publicist 
Ron Yahne, Member @ Large 
Peter Lev, Member @ Large

Feel free to contact the Black Hills Climber's Coalition for weather information (not guaranteed), advice (don't take it too seriously), or anything related to, directly or indirectly, rock climbing.

bhclimbers@yahoo.com



Route Repair

BHCC Member Meetings:
 
Third Tuesday of Every Month
 at 7:00PM
Gas Light, Rockerville

Climb like you mean it.
 

  

  2007 BHCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS:
Bruce Junek, Chairperson
Lyle Clapp, Vice Chairperson
, Secretary
Jim Slichter, Treasurer
Aaron Costello, Publicist
Ron Yahne, Member @ Large
Peter Lev, Member @ Large


 

  Classic Route of Whenever:
 5.3 Route on the Sickle

    Area:  Picket Fence
    FA: Herb and Jan Conn
    Difficulty: 5.3
    Getting There:  Turn left off the
   trail to the Cathedral Spires, and
   after 100 yards, wander over to
   your left and around the back of
   the Picket Fence. The route starts
   on the Northeast side.
    The Beta: Climb the arête
   through two headwalls, slinging
   horns along the way for protection
   
   
   Rappel off the North Side with
   two ropes to minimize your
   potential energy.  Enjoy!
  

 

    CLIMB SAFE EVERYONE!
       

 

 

 

 
   

SIGN THE REGISTERS WHEN CLIMBING AT RUSHMORE

Duane Martenson, Mike Cronin, Brent Kertzman and Bruce Junek met recently with officials from Mount Rushmore National Memorial to update annual permits for replacing old bolts and anchors on rock climbing routes within the park boundary. During the meeting it was discussed how the park service and BHCC could work together to make more people aware of the rock climbing available in the park, as most visitors to the park don’t think of Rushmore as a place for recreational activities.  Yet Rushmore has a history of rock climbing that started in 1936 when Fritz Weissner first climbed Olton’s Shoulder. 

The park service has built sign-in kiosks, where rock climbers can list the areas they are climbing and numbers in their group.  Some climbers have been reluctant to sign registers, believing the park will shut down access if too many climbers are listed.  The park staff and the BHCC say that is not true, and want to encourage climbers to always sign the registers. 

The park service views registers like documentation.  It gives the Park Service the authority to work better with climbers as a legitimate and historical user-group.  With the increase in bouldering at Mt Baldy the park service is now considering a fourth sign-in kiosk for that area.  The BHCC hopes to encourage boulderers to also sign in at the kiosks.  Signing the register is like casting a vote, it says that you value the resource for climbing, and want access to climbing to continue in the park!

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