Route Repair

Rich Barry is heading up the Fixed Hardware Committee for 2007.
 His report from the April 17, 2007 Meeting is available here.

Areas in Custer State Park are currently under reconnaissance for new bolts and anchors.  Keep visiting for updates.

(The information below has not been updated for some time)
 


Needles        Rushmore        Raspberry Rock

This is the initial list that the BHCC Bolting Committee generated last year. 
Please come to a meeting or get a hold of the Bolting Committee member
 if you have a route suggestion.


  • Route
  • Repair(s) Needed
  • Comments

Needles

Inner Outlet
Hardrocker
All new bolts
The last bolt can now be protected with a cam placement, however since this has traditionally been a bolted route, leaving out that last bolt would surprise returning climbers to the route, who expect a bolt and would not have brought a cam. The feeling at this time is to replace all the bolts.

Jugs
Replace existing bolts plus add in 1 or 2 new bolts, also replace the rap anchors below jugs.
Dennis Horning, the original route setter, has given preliminary approval to add bolts to this classis line, which in the past has been, at best, tricky to protect on sustained, pumpy climbing.

Ron Yahne - "The bolts were all (3) replaced about 10 years ago with 3 3/4" Hilti bolts. They were not stainless but I think they will still last a lifetime. Adding two or three to this route would be a tremendous improvement!"
Brent Kertzman - "Dennis Horning has recently given us the go ahead to add as many bolts as we see fit on Jugs on two separate occasions."

Sore Thumb
Needs new anchors, replace 1 bolt and remove 2 bolts.
The lower bolt needs replacing.  Take out the upper two bolts as most climbers follow the crack to the right, which is easy to protect with gear.

Imagination Spires
Replace anchor

Middle Earth
Gateway to Mordor
Replace one bolt

Arch’s Gollum
Brent Kertzman - "I drilled some of the bolts on the F.A. of this route and stated we can add more bolts within reason due to the fact this will open up a great 5.9 to more folks."

Cathedral Spires
Freaks Fright
Replace 1 bolt, replace top anchor pins with bolts.

Ten Pins
Hairy Pin
Crux bolt is huge, but shoulder bolt needs replacing, possibly add another anchor bolt.

T the Ball
Add a second anchor bolt.


White Knight
Replace Leper heads with bolts

 

A Necessary Evil
Replace the pins with bolts and existing bolts
Brent Kertzman -"I did the F.A. of and it is ok to replace the pins with bolts and replace existing bolts"

 


Rushmore Repair


 Routes That Were Repaired During the 2003 Season

Route Name Location Hardware Replaced Responsible Party Comments
Anaphylactic Shock 
5.11
South Seas 11 Bolts
Anchor
Brent Kertzman

Adam Pequette

 Completed!  The missing bolt has been found and installed.
W.A.S.P.
5.10-
South Seas 10 Bolts

Brent Kertzman

Duane Martenson

Replaced Pin with Bolt; Added Bolt after 3rd (FA approved)
O'Shari
5.12a
Copping Block 5 Bolts
Anchor
Mike Cronin  
Ladies in Love
5.12
South Seas 7 Bolts Mike Cronin  
Mr. Critical
5.11
South Seas 11 Bolts Yahne, Kertzman, Archbold  
Capitan Hook
5.9R
South Seas 5 Bolts
Anchor
Mike Cronin

Duane Martenson

 
Ethical Decay
5.10
South Seas 7 Bolts
Anchor
Ron Yahne
Bob Archbold
 
Big Dripper
5.9
Marker 6 Bolts
Anchor
Bob Archbold  
Weird Water
5.7
Marker 10 Bolts
Anchor
Bob Archbold  
Double Chin
5.11
Copping Block Anchor Mike Cronin  
Gossamer
5.7
Monster Anchor Ron Yahne  
Pelican Dyke
5.10
South Seas 8 Bolts Brent Kertzman  
Receding Fall Line
5.10
Baldy 7 Bolts
Anchor
Ron Yahne
Duane Martenson
 
Make Believe
5.8
Monster 9 Bolts Ron Yahne
Bob Archbold
 
Pluto's Playground
5.9R
Monster 4 Bolts Ron Yahne
Bob Archbold
 
Butterfly
5.12
South Seas 13 Bolts
Anchor
Mike Cronin
Ron Yahne
 
Sky Walker 
5.9
Marker 10 Bolts 
Anchor
Bob Archbold Retro bolted Start

 

Routes Repaired In The 2004 Climbing Season

 

Route Name Location Hardware Replaced Responsible Party Comments
Tender Vittles Copping Block 8 bolts and Anchor Cronin & Martenson  
Pop You Up Copping Block First Bolt Cronin & Martenson Replace first bolt
Jackknife Matinee Copping Block Anchors Cronin & Martenson Had no anchor (Used recycled cold shut)
Boylesque South Seas Anchors Kurtzman Nice new Anchors made possible by the grant Mike Cronin wrote.
Shady Proposition South Seas All New Bolts Kurtzman Adam had done the first 3-4 bolts and Brent finished up.

 

Routes Repaired In The 2003/2004 Climbing Season

Raspberry Rock

The collation has funded about 10% of the hardware replacement expense for the routes thus far at Raspberry.  All of the Retro bolting is funded by initial developer.

Route Name Location Hardware Replaced Responsible Party Comments
Raspberry Blossoms 5.10a   3 bolts

Anchors

Kertzman addded 7 bolt direct finish
Fascination Street
5.10 c
  5/16 bolts

Anchors

Kertzman Completely Retroed for your climbing safety
Dog Days of Summer 5.10a     Kertzman Retro bolted
Indian Summer 5.10c/d   5/16 bolts

Anchors

Kertzman Retro bolted
Somewhere East of Fresno & Weather or Not 5.10d/5.9   Anchors Kertzman Replaced Anchors on first and second pitch
Uff-Da-Hedral 5.10b   Anchors Kertzman/Walker Replaced Anchors on second pitch