Route Repair
Rich Barry is heading
up the Fixed Hardware Committee for 2007.
His report from the April 17, 2007 Meeting is available
here.
Areas in Custer State Park are
currently under reconnaissance for new bolts and anchors. Keep
visiting for updates.
(The information below has
not been updated for some time)
Needles
Rushmore
Raspberry Rock
This is the initial list that the BHCC Bolting Committee
generated last year.
Please come to a meeting or get a hold of the Bolting
Committee member
if you have a route suggestion.
- Route
- Repair(s) Needed
- Comments
Needles
Inner Outlet
Hardrocker
All new bolts
The last bolt can now be protected with a cam
placement, however since this has traditionally been a bolted route, leaving out
that last bolt would surprise returning climbers to the route, who expect a bolt
and would not have brought a cam. The feeling at this time is to replace all the
bolts.
Jugs
Replace existing bolts plus add in 1
or 2 new bolts, also replace the rap anchors below jugs.
Dennis Horning, the original route setter, has
given preliminary approval to add bolts to this classis line, which in the past
has been, at best, tricky to protect on sustained, pumpy climbing.
Ron Yahne - "The bolts were all (3) replaced about 10 years ago with 3 3/4"
Hilti bolts. They were not stainless but I think they will still last a lifetime. Adding two or three to this route would be a tremendous
improvement!"
Brent Kertzman -
"Dennis Horning has recently given us the go ahead to add as many bolts as we see fit on Jugs on two
separate occasions."
Sore Thumb
Needs new anchors, replace 1 bolt
and remove 2 bolts.
The lower bolt needs replacing. Take out
the upper two bolts as most climbers follow the crack to the right, which is
easy to protect with gear.
Imagination Spires
Replace anchor
Middle Earth
Gateway to Mordor
Replace one bolt
Arch’s Gollum
Brent Kertzman - "I drilled some of the bolts on the F.A. of this route and stated we can add more bolts within reason due to the fact this will open up a great 5.9 to more folks."
Cathedral Spires
Freaks Fright
Replace 1 bolt, replace top
anchor pins with bolts.
Ten Pins
Hairy Pin
Crux bolt is huge, but shoulder
bolt needs replacing, possibly add another anchor bolt.
T the Ball
Add a second anchor bolt.
White Knight
Replace Leper heads with bolts
A Necessary Evil
Replace the pins with bolts
and existing bolts
Brent Kertzman -"I did the F.A. of and it is ok to replace the pins with bolts and replace
existing bolts"
Rushmore Repair
Routes That Were Repaired During the
2003 Season
|
Route
Name |
Location |
Hardware
Replaced |
Responsible
Party |
Comments |
Anaphylactic Shock
5.11 |
South Seas |
11 Bolts
Anchor |
Brent Kertzman
Adam Pequette |
Completed! The missing bolt has been
found and installed. |
W.A.S.P.
5.10- |
South Seas |
10 Bolts |
Brent Kertzman
Duane Martenson |
Replaced Pin with Bolt; Added Bolt after 3rd (FA approved)
|
O'Shari
5.12a |
Copping Block |
5 Bolts
Anchor |
Mike Cronin |
|
Ladies in Love
5.12 |
South Seas |
7 Bolts |
Mike Cronin |
|
Mr. Critical
5.11 |
South Seas |
11 Bolts |
Yahne, Kertzman, Archbold |
|
Capitan Hook
5.9R |
South Seas |
5 Bolts
Anchor |
Mike Cronin
Duane Martenson |
|
Ethical Decay
5.10 |
South Seas |
7 Bolts
Anchor |
Ron Yahne
Bob Archbold |
|
Big Dripper
5.9 |
Marker |
6 Bolts
Anchor |
Bob Archbold |
|
Weird Water
5.7 |
Marker |
10 Bolts
Anchor |
Bob Archbold |
|
Double Chin
5.11 |
Copping Block |
Anchor |
Mike Cronin |
|
Gossamer
5.7 |
Monster |
Anchor |
Ron Yahne |
|
Pelican Dyke
5.10 |
South Seas |
8 Bolts |
Brent Kertzman |
|
Receding Fall Line
5.10 |
Baldy |
7 Bolts
Anchor |
Ron Yahne
Duane Martenson |
|
Make Believe
5.8 |
Monster |
9 Bolts |
Ron Yahne
Bob Archbold |
|
Pluto's Playground
5.9R |
Monster |
4 Bolts |
Ron Yahne
Bob Archbold |
|
Butterfly
5.12 |
South Seas |
13 Bolts
Anchor |
Mike Cronin
Ron Yahne |
|
Sky Walker
5.9 |
Marker |
10 Bolts
Anchor |
Bob Archbold |
Retro bolted Start |
Routes Repaired In The 2004 Climbing Season
|
Route
Name |
Location |
Hardware
Replaced |
Responsible
Party |
Comments |
| Tender Vittles |
Copping Block |
8 bolts and Anchor |
Cronin & Martenson |
|
| Pop You Up |
Copping Block |
First Bolt |
Cronin & Martenson |
Replace first bolt |
| Jackknife Matinee |
Copping Block |
Anchors |
Cronin & Martenson |
Had no anchor (Used recycled cold shut) |
| Boylesque |
South Seas |
Anchors |
Kurtzman |
Nice new Anchors made possible by the grant Mike Cronin
wrote. |
| Shady Proposition |
South Seas |
All New Bolts |
Kurtzman |
Adam had done the first 3-4 bolts and Brent finished up. |
Routes Repaired In The 2003/2004 Climbing Season
Raspberry Rock
The collation has funded about 10% of the
hardware replacement expense for the routes thus far at Raspberry. All of
the Retro bolting is funded by initial developer.
|
Route
Name |
Location |
Hardware
Replaced |
Responsible
Party |
Comments |
| Raspberry Blossoms 5.10a |
|
3 bolts
Anchors |
Kertzman |
addded 7 bolt direct finish |
Fascination Street
5.10 c |
|
5/16 bolts
Anchors |
Kertzman |
Completely Retroed for your climbing safety |
| Dog Days of Summer 5.10a |
|
|
Kertzman |
Retro bolted |
| Indian Summer 5.10c/d |
|
5/16 bolts
Anchors |
Kertzman |
Retro bolted |
| Somewhere East of Fresno & Weather or Not 5.10d/5.9 |
|
Anchors |
Kertzman |
Replaced Anchors on first and second pitch |
| Uff-Da-Hedral 5.10b |
|
Anchors |
Kertzman/Walker |
Replaced Anchors on second pitch |
| |
|
|
|
|
|