March 2005, Newsletter

Newsletter Editor—Gus Malon for Bruce B. Junek

Our next meetings will be Tuesday, March 15, 7:00 p.m. at the Gaslight in Rockerville. I believe Bruce the BHCC Chair will be at the April meeting. The time and place of the April meeting have yet to be announced.

About 35 people showed up for our January meeting. A lot of young, new faces were in attendance which brought a breath of fresh air into the Coalition. Co-Chair Christian did a great job keeping the topics moving. A number of topics were discussed and voted on.

First, two new Members @ Large were voted into office. The Coalition welcomes Ron Yahne and Mande Shaykett as new Members @ Large. New and old school represented respectively, I think. The Coalition also thanks former Members @ Large Johnny Walker and Dave Springhetti for their service.

The upcoming event “Knots & Nuts” was also discussed. The exact day in April has not been determined. This event will be in conjunction with the Hardrocker Climbing Club field day. A number of issues still need to be worked out. Sue Scheirbeck is working on the events, Eric Sutton on insurance issues, and Gus Malon on the venue. As of press time we are looking at getting a permit from the Forest Service for Toy Boat area. We would use the Wrinkled Rock parking area for an information area and potluck. An idea of having “stations” might be implemented that would include anchors, rope work, top roping safety, efficient belay stations, and gear usage. BHSU students and instructor Chris McCart of the Outdoor Ed program showed up and are interested in attending. A few other Coalition members John Walker and John Sale also offered to help out. These issues will be clarified at the next meeting.

Gus Malon spoke on the “Closed Forest” policy that the Forest Service is working on to restrict OHV use on Forest Service land. “Closed Forest means travel is restricted unless posted “open.” Other National Forests already have this policy in effect, the Black Hills the exception. In a nutshell, the emphasis is on motorized OHV use.  A number of people expressed concern how these policies might affect other user groups. Anybody building trail, single, or two track without a permit is in violation of the current policy, regardless of any policy change. People shouldn’t express “shock” now about the policy just because they’ve gotten away with illegal activities in the past. Eventually law enforcement will catch up. As far as climbers go, the only area that might be a candidate for seasonal gate closures is the Norbeck Wildlife Preserve. Congress mandated the Preserve be managed for wildlife and therefore, recreation is secondary. If you feel this is wrong please write your Congressperson. The Forest Service is required to follow the law put forth from Capitol Hill. Working with Land Management agencies and following the rules will only increase our standing in their eyes. Enough said.

Also the Devils Tower climbing management addendum was discussed. Mande Shaykett was voted to be the Coalition liaison on this issue. Mande has been employed by the NPS and already has a good working relationship with Devils Tower N.M. Mande expressed some ideas the NPS is putting forward at the meeting. Some issues are litter, waste deposits, gear caching, and rescue. The Park Service has seen rising numbers of climbers at the Tower and subsequent abuse. The Coalition decided to hold off sending an official letter to the NPS requesting proposed changes for now. The tact is to send some representatives to some informal meetings with the NPS first and establish a working relationship. Mande expressed the NPS is eager to work with us. Mande and Gus are setting up a date to meet with the Resource Manager and the Chief Ranger. It’s been suggested the Coalition show up in force to the Spring and Fall trail days at the Tower. That kind of PR goes a long way with land managers. Stay tuned.

A Recon Day was set for March 5th snow or shine. Anyone interested in seeing what routes may be up for replacement in the Middle Earth area near Sylvan Lake is encouraged to attend. You can come and look and/or climb routes in this area. Meet at the main parking area at Sylvan Lake around 9 am or hike into Middle Earth later.

There was also a bit of discussion about reaching out to all the climbers in the area, new and old school, to get a collective voice. Personal agendas are alienating some folks.  Please get your friends and partners to come to meetings to voice their pleasures and displeasures. Hey it’s still a democracy! Get involved! Complaining on the couch doesn’t get it done. 

The BHCC website at bhclimbers.com is the place to let other climbers know what you think!  Know of a route that needs new bolts or anchors, put it on the website!  Want to help the coalition save a buck?  Email the website with your email address-- rather than sending you a printed newsletter and we will email the newsletter to you and save the printing and postage costs!

 “The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.”