Editor-- Bruce B. Junek
More than 50 people showed up for a very important and productive August meeting of the Black Hills Climbing Coalition (BHCC) in Rockerville. Everyone quickly agreed to stop focusing on our differences, and instead find areas where we could begin to build a consensus and identify common concerns.
It was agreed that at this time a survey was not needed. Many felt that people had already begun a dialogue about ethics, and what we now needed was to solidify an overall statement of what we could agree on.
First it was agreed that the “Needles Area” be defined as the smaller area of Custer State Park that is northwest of the main bulk of the park, the peninsula of the park that includes the Cathedral Spire area, Ten Pins, Needles Eye and Sylvan Lake.
Everyone agreed that at this time Needles ethics should continue to be a ground up style, with all bolting done on lead. Custer State Park policy, and BHCC policy, will continue that no power drills be used for establishing new routes. Power drills can continue to be used for route repair when done under the guidelines of Custer State Park and BHCC.
During the 1988 meeting the use of hooking while drilling bolts on lead was discussed and decided against. Despite this prohibition, in the last decade numerous harder routes have been put up using hooks. Everyone felt that hooking was now an acceptable level of change, and voted to officially allow hooking for hand drilling bolts.
Many people are very interested to having more routes in the Needles area. Everyone agreed that many good routes are now unsafe due to old quarter-inch button head bolts. Everyone was excited about the prospect of putting energy and money into replacing many of these old bolts. That alone could open up many routes again to climbers.
Some basic guidelines were agreed upon regarding this process. When bolts are replaced within six inches of the original location, prior authorization by one of the route setters would not be needed. If group consensus determined that a change might improve the route, say a bolt was not in an optimum location, or even issues regarding number of bolts, then one of the route setters would need to give an okay before the changes would be made.
Replacing older pins with bolts would have to be done on a case-by-case basis according to group consensus.
It was also discussed what might be done if the route setter did not okay the changes, if that would mean an automatic veto of the idea. A number of people felt in some situations group consensus should carry as much right as the opinions of the route setters. Others felt that was too much power for any committee, and also against a long tradition of honoring the route as first put in. Both sides quickly realized that this issue would require much more discussion, and was not necessary to resolve at this time as no such situation has yet even occurred.
Many people felt it was important to begin the process of fixing Needles routes as quickly as possible and expressed hope that a workday might be held as early as next month. It was also agreed that all bolts be replaced using stainless steel bolts and hangers, and that the BHCC allocate $500 to buy hardware for Needles bolt replacement projects. So stay tuned for updates.
Not everyone agrees 100% with all of the decisions made, but everyone was willing to come together to establish a consensus. There was a strong feeling that it was important to work together within these guidelines, to give the route repair process a chance to work, and to use serious peer pressure to help maintain ethics compliance. Members were reminded that park rangers would be informed upon any infractions, and climbers who disregarded rules on power drilling could risk fines of well over $500.
On another issue, Gus Malon informed the group that a recent GPS survey of the Black Elk Wilderness boundary revealed that parts of Chopping Block including Wrinkle Rock and the area called North Park are all within the wilderness area. Existing routes will not be affected by this, as no one, even the rangers, were aware of this issue. Now, new signs have been posted to show the actual boundary, and wilderness-bolting rules will apply to those areas.
Don’t forget, BEANS & BINERS will be held at the South Seas at Rushmore on Saturday, September 4, with ropes going up starting about 9:00 a.m. This is a great chance to come out, do lots of routes, and socialize all at the same time. Gus Malon will again be bringing a giant pot of vegetarian chili, and all climbers are encouraged to bring food or drink to donate for a potluck. Ropes will be up on numerous routes until about 4:00 p.m., so come on out and join the fun!